Train Travel China - Relax and watch the world go by

Train travel and transport in China

Train travel in China is incredibly well organized. The best way to cover large distances in China is to take the (night) train (and there a quite a few trains out there).It's also an excellent way to get in touch with the Chinese middle-class. Even though they may not speak English, usually you'll be able to have a conversation using hands, feet and perhaps a Chinese dictionary or two. By travelling by train at night while in China you'll also save money on hotel accommodation and you'll arrive at the centre your new destination relatively relaxed and ready to go out and explore. The trains are relatively clean, well organised and train personnel are very helpful. Most of our itineraries include one or two night train trips. 

We book train trips quite some time in advance, and this is very necessary since there are very little seats available in certain months. Departing trains are almost always fully booked. This is most definitely the case for the new Beijing - Lhasa train and we must book tickets on this train far in advance. You may also want to have a look at the Transmongolian Express to China, the legendary train trip through Russia leading to Beijing.
 

What are Chinese train stations like?

Large, larger, largest..... these terms fit Chinese train stations perfectly, especially in the cities. Train travel in China is very efficient, most trains depart right on time and night trains usually depart in the early evening. The train will be ready and waiting for its passenger on or under the station at its platform. Even if the train station is crowded, try to be at the platform gate one hour before departure, you'll usually be allowed to board the train. 

Be sure to arrive at the train station on time; we suggest arriving 1 ½ hours before departure. Since you'll be travelling to the train stations in China during the peak traffic jams in the evening, you'll find that it will take more time to cross through the city. Arriving at the train station early will alleviate stress and allow you to have a bite to eat at the station before departure. Larger stations have self serve restaurants which allow you to select your own dishes. You can have a seat and watch the crowds pass by.

Note: At Beijing's west station where the train to Xi'an departs from, the station's grand hall is to right to the left as you walk into the train station.

Train travel China - Train station
Train Travel China - Train station

How to find your train?

Train departure and arrival information can be found on large signs at the train station. The information isn't provided by destination, but by train identification number. This same number is also located on your train ticket. You'll probably have difficultly reading anything else on your ticket since everything is in Chinese. If you run into any difficulties; there is a train steward in each train carriage. 

Your train ticket also indicates which carriage and bed number you have. The train steward(ess) will collect your card and give a type of 'credit card' with your seat number on it in return. You'll have to keep this card on you during your trip. 

A half hour before arrival at your destination, the steward(ess) will come back and collect the card and return your original train ticket to you. 

What does the night train look like?

Night trains have several different sleeping arrangements: regular seats, hard sleeper (2nd class) and soft sleeper (1st class). Unless requested to do otherwise, we usually book hard sleepers. A 'hard sleeper' is not what you may think.... it actually offers practically the same bed as you would receive if you booked a soft sleeper. So why is it referred to as a 'hard sleeper'? Because class differentiation was strictly prohibited and therefore first and second class differentiations were not allowed, that is why the train travel in China has hard and soft differentiations. You'll be able to place your bags in the storage rack in the hallway or under the bottom bunk (flat suitcases will fit fine). 

The steward has a hut at the front of the carriage and there are also two (squat) toilets and a washroom with cold (non-drinkable) water. Fine to freshen up, but the room isn't equipped for bathing. A small flash light may come handy since the lighting on board the train is turned off centrally and quite suddenly. Most nights on night trains are quiet and peaceful since the Chinese also try to get a good night's sleep on board. Just in case, you may want to bring along a pair of ear plugs. 

Train Travel China - Night train
Train Travel China - Seating arrangements
Regular seat:
Comparable to our commuter trains. However these areas are always full and tiring. We do not offer these seats, however in peak travel periods they may be the only seats available. If at all possible, we then suggest you try to book air travel for this portion of your trip. The train is an excellent means of transport for short day trips. Travelling by train is relaxing, you can look out and enjoy the view; however it's usually slower than the bus. 
Hard sleeper:
There are 10 open cabins with 6 beds, 3 on each side, in each carriage. There's a table in each cabin with a spot for a family size thermos can of hot water. Each bed has its own comforter, pillow and towel. The dimensions are quite generous: approx. 60 cm wide by 2 metres long (top bed as well). There are ladders to climb to the top bunk along a dividing wall. We always try to book the bottom bunks first and if these are not available we'll book the top bunk. 
Soft sleeper:
There are 10 closed cabins with 4 beds, 2 on each side, in each carriage. Otherwise the cabin is the same. There are less people in one cabin, however at times the cabin is more confined than the hard sleeper. 

Train tickets can only be booked through our agent a short time before departure. Because of this it may not always be possible to get seats or beds next to your travel companions. However we will do all we can do to avoid this. 

Are food and beverages available on board?

If you would like something warm to drink on board, be sure to bring along a cup, spoon, tea, instant coffee and sugar (all of this can be purchased easily and affordably in China). A food and beverage cart with a very limited assortment will ride through the train (for instance with plastic boxes of noodles). The train's restaurant is reasonable, but nothing special. You can order (luke-warm) beer and cokes and simple meals.  

Most Chinese bring along their own water, food and drinks. We suggest you do the same and bring along some cookies or snacks in any case. You'll be able to purchase snacks at the train station; another reason to arrive early at the train station. 
Train Travel China - Food on board
China transport - Taxi cabs

Transfers from/ to train stations

On arrival at a train station your transfer to your hotel is always included in the price of your trip, unless your hotel is within walking distance from the train station. It's convenient and you won't have to worry about catching taxi cab. It will also allow you to meet our local representative and he or she will provide you with any further travel documentation that you may need. 

We usually don't book transport to the train station. By booking your own taxi cab at your hotel's reception desk you can arrange your own transport more affordably and effectively. This allows you to stay at the hotel as long as you like without having to wait aimlessly. There are no added benefits by having a transfer take you to the train station since he usually can't stop there for long. If you do prefer having transfers arranged prior to departure, just let us know and we can arrange it for you.

Train travel in China - The most common train routes and duration


Beijing – Xi'an: 12 ½ hours
Beijing - Shanghai: 12 hours
Xi'an – Lanzhou: 9 hours
Xi'an – Chengdu: 16 ½ hours
 


Kunming - Guilin: 18 ½ hours
Guilin - Guangzhou: 13 hours
Guangzhou - Hong Kong: 2 hours
Shanghai - Suzhou: 1 hour


 


Note: routes from Shanghai to Guilin, Canton or Chengdu take more than 25 hours to travel and we advise against them. The route from Shanghai to Xi'an is also quite long at approximately 20 hours.
Train travel China - Comfortable train ride


Local transport (taxi, city bus, rickshaw, bike rental etc.)

Train travel China - Taxi Cabs
Riding a taxi cab.... the ins and outs
Taxi cabs rides in China are affordable and their drivers are usually friendly and helpful. Distances are often larger than they may appear in Chinese cities and that's why it's best to take a taxi cab when you can. The starting fee is usually £1 - 2, afterwards you pay a small surcharge per km. You'll really have to drive for quite some time to reach a £5 charge and you shouldn't ever really have to pay more than £10. After 23:00 you'll pay a slightly higher fee. Tips aren't common; however a driver will be very happy if you decide to pay £2 instead of £1.75 for instance. 

Taxi cabs are the most ideal means of transport to explore a city. The only problem is that taxi cab drivers only speak Chinese (those that speak English become guides). However if you use the tips below you'll be able to move around just fine as an independent traveller in China. If you bring along a small Chinese pocket dictionary, you're sure to make friends in no time!
Be sure to carry a map of the city with you while sight-seeing. You'll receive a map from our representative during visits to large cities, if you don't receive one be sure to ask for it. You may want to draw an x to mark to spot where your hotel is located. We also suggest always having one of your hotel's business cards on you; you should be able to find these at each hotel's reception area. Even if you do pronounce your hotel's name correctly, you'll be hard pressed to find a taxi cab driver that will understand you and know where to find your hotel. We also suggest having the receptionist write down the name of the neighbourhood in Chinese on the business card (it's usually not on the card automatically).

Taxi drivers know the neighbourhoods and will ask for directions if they are not familiar with the hotel. Most taxi drivers know where to find the most important attractions in their towns, however just be on the safe side you may ask the receptionist to write down where you'd like to go to in Chinese for the taxi driver. Most taxi cabs in China have metres (it's also required by law). Some taxi cab drivers may not want to give you (a pale face) a ride, because they would rather avoid the hassle.... no problem at all, just take the next cab (you can also take another cab if you think the driver doesn't know where you want to go). 
Train travel China - Finding your way
Train travel China - Rickshaws
It gets more difficult to find a taxi cab, depending on the city or town, after 18.00. If you don't come across a taxi cab on the streets, you could always enter a (large) hotel and ask them to arrange a taxi cab for you. Since traffic jams are just as much a part of large Chinese cities as they are here in the UK, you'll want to plan ahead and set aside as much time as possible for transport. 

Metro
Beijing, Hong Kong and Shanghai have a crowded, yet affordable metro. There is one price for as long as you're in the metro, once you leave the metro and want to get on again you'll pay a fee once again. Tickets are available at the metro office.

Mini vans, Rickshaws etc.
There are other alternative means of transport in larger cities such as mini vans that travel along a set route for instance or Rickshaws that travel along short distances. Rickshaws however are more expensive than taxi cabs and are more likely to overcharge. Rickshaws that ride through the Beijing hutongs are expensive; we suggest riding a bike through them (see below). 
City bus
Most cities have numbered city buses; your hotel should have a bus schedule available for you. It's also relatively easy to figure out which bus to take when you're out and about and need to catch a bus. For example, the buses in Xi'an ride from the bus station to the southern part of town and are quite easy to figure out. Bus fare is paid in cash and usually 1 Yuan which you deposit in a coin box by the driver.

Bicycle rental
Ask any Chinese person what they couldn't live without and they would most likely answer: a television, a refrigerator and a bicycle or if they are better off a motorcycle and if they are wealthy a car. Most Chinese are just as proficient in bicycle riding as some of the bicycle-riding Europeans (such as the Dutch), the only difference being the quality in bicycles. 
Train travel China - City buses
Transport China - Train travel China
Bicycle rentals are available in most cities, especially in those neighbourhoods where backpacker hotels are located. However, not every city is appropriate for bicycle riding due to increasing traffic. Bicycle riding is doable in the hutongs (historic neighbourhoods) of Beijing, over Xi'an's city wall, around Erhai Lake near Dali and along the Yangshuo River.

Bicycle rentals usually cost 15 Yuan or approximately 1,50 Euros per day. To avoid problems while riding, check the following: have the tires been inflated properly? Do the breaks work properly? Does the bicycle have a lock? Is the saddle comfortable? Is the height of the saddle appropriate for you? If you do happen to get a flat tire while on the road, there's always a friendly Chinese around to help you. 

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